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Travel Mezze - by khassandra

Travel Mezze - October 2006

Spain- to the south

October 31st 2006 22:34
Southern Spain

I must clarify that in my previous posting, the industrial smog referred to San Sebastian- not Barcelona.

Spain- to the south

My first impression of southern Spain was from work colleagues in London during the 70’s. Their idea of ‘an economical holiday abroad where you felt right at home" was a seaside venue complete with ‘English’ bars and fish ‘n chip outlets! Their destination?- Costa del Sol and Costa Brava-.where holiday packages were both prolific and cheap! The idea of coach loads of revellers making ‘their annual pilgrimage’ south was not at all appealing!


It was with some trepidation that I accepted an opportunity of a driving holiday around the south of Spain. The plan was to ‘go in search of Salvador Dali and explore artistic delights along the way’.
We landed on the north east coastline and proceeded to travel south (after leaving the aforesaid San Sebastian).
I decided that ‘no schedule’ was the way to go, stopping whenever we saw anything interesting. This way we could enjoy the journey to the full- basking on beaches to enjoy warm balmy days, and frequent local tavernas for sustenance. It quickly became a daily habit to buy churros snacks- fried long pieces of batter with serrated edges, sprinkled with ample sugar and sold at seaside vendor carts or at churreria’s.

I love chorizos, the meaty, fine textured Spanish sausage. Chorizos and other sausages are found everywhere- smoked, some laced with wine or herbs, mild, or hot. Be sure to check if they are ready to eat rather than raw! Ham or Jamon is another favourite; similar to the Italian Parma ham yet distinctly different; as with most specialties, there is the highest quality that I was told is Jamon Serrano.

Most dishes in Spain contain ingredients such as olive oil, paprika, onions, saffron and why not? 70% of the world’s saffron is grown in Spain from the purple crocus flower. Essential in many culinary recipes, saffron is extremely expensive to buy due to the need to hand pick during harvest time. The price varies according to the quality. It is definitely a must-buy should you travel to Spain.

Back to my travels. I decided to stay at a little fishing port close to Cadeques- home of Dali. The little harbour invited a visit early each morning to watch the fishermen unload their catch. The sight of various pesche and shellfish; small sardines, red schnappers, gambas- plump prawns, calamari, octopus gave me ideas for lunch! I took rooms in a small hotel on the beachfront- both basic and very comfortable. Best of all, it saved me walking a long way to retire after a night’s feasting and drinking! My ‘nightcap’ of choice was a large deep cup of strong coffee laced with a generous pour of Grand Marnier- topped off with a square of vanilla icecream!- Try it!

I had read up on Dali and seen pictures of his art- all rather strange to me, and some reminiscent of bad dreams! An article once reported that ‘Dali loved his wife Gala so much that he vowed to eat her upon her death to prove his love for her’…yuk! He had also written a book on ‘the history of farts!"- yes he was a strange one! Our visit to Cadeques was extremely interesting. I reserve my right to admire immensely this unique and colourful artist- but I still would not hang his paintings in my parlour!

Back to food. I have already remarked on my northern Spain piece about my love for Spanish bread- ‘Pan de Horno’- despite coming across many recipes for it, I am convinced you need Spanish flour to create the extra crusty and unique flavour that I remember. The accompaniment? - cheese.
Cheese- ah how I love cheeses. In Spain you will find it in all tastes and textures. The lush countryside gives life to a wide variety made from cow’s, goat or sheep’s milk. Marinated, smoked, and laced with liquor, blue, white or golden in colour- you will find something special to suit your palate.
I loved to snack with a thick slice of bread rubbed with one of the many excellent varieties of extra virgin olive oil, and topped with a generous chunk of cheese and/or sausage.

Off to Wales tomorrow……


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Barcelona-Ole already!

October 30th 2006 23:29
BARCELONO….OLE already!

My recent visit to Barcelona in Spain was truly a pleasing eye opener in comparison to my very first trip in the 70’s when we revised our plan to tour the country starting from Barcelona. At that time we found heavy industrial smog and extremely noisy traffic, so proceeded immediately to the south!

Barcelona is now a city of style. Magnificent grand old buildings, some from the ornate Gothic age, mixed in with architecture in the "modernisme fashion"-much created by the master Gaudi. One cannot escape examples of this 19th century legend through his distinctive works as diverse as churches, private homes, even a winery. Today Barcelona proudly displays his signature ceramic tile work on its tourism materials. Colourful and quirky, his building designs feature flowing undulating lines, and surprising spires, roomy courtyards and sunny outlooks.

One such structure, the Battlo House-now hired out for business functions-features some of the best of his work. Outside the building stands apart from its neighbours, both distinctive and intriguing. What appear as small windows in fact allow huge streams of light inside. It looks like a child’s fantasy made of plasticine. Rounded corners, labyrinth like corridors leading to rooms bathed in sunshine. A courtyard here and there-something to please the eye around each corner.

Another ‘favourite son’ is Jean Miro, born in 1893 his "modernisme" style of art is acknowledged worldwide. He travelled extensively to Paris (where he lived for some time), Holland, Belgium and New York where he held exhibitions of his work. Not content with art, he produced ceramics and sculpture. Galleries around the city contain many of his creations.

My visit to Barcelona coincided with one of their many annual festivals.
One evening while travelling in a taxi, I heard deafening explosions and noticed groups of youths running nearby throwing firecrackers and other incendiaries at anything in their path. When a firecracker exploded in front of our vehicle, the driver, noticing my alarm, explained that it was the ‘harmless’ popular Pyrotechnic festival.
I was pleased to escape to the safety of my hotel deciding to dine inside that night!

Eating is a joy in Barcelona, the location of the city near the sea allows for many delicious meals that include seafood. Prawns, squid, mussels, assorted fish are presented fried, baked or stewed- or cooked in the time honoured favourite- the paella. Dining at the harbour front amidst a line of seafood restaurants, you can see different versions- some contain only seafood with saffron rice, while others include chicken and meat.
Tapas bars are plentiful even though Tapas was not originally from Barcelona.
Starting out as a simple accompaniment to a glass of wine, some Tapas bars or restaurants may offer a choice of up to thirty of these little plates of treats.
Marinated squid, fried whitebait size fish, omelette, grilled prawns, meatballs, octopus- the variety is endless. Some establishments provide an assortment on the bar for you to select from, while others take your individual order from the menu.
Wander around the streets and you will see dozens of little cafes and restaurants with blackboards outside declaring their specialties.
If you are on a self-catering holiday or staying at a hotel- you must buy food for a picnic at some time. Spain has some of the best salamis in the world. With a wider choice than the chorizo or ad hoc sausage you might find in your local food market- you will find a huge range of smoked sausage and hams to build your picnic around. Add some heavy textured crusty bread and a bottle or two or local wine- and you are in business!

If you like shopping, Barcelona is for the discerning. The leather industry provides a wide selection of footwear and bags for all size pocket books! Whatever you pay, it will be a lot more economical than the price at home- so stock up.! Leather garments in the softest hide, assorted designs and colours will also please.
For gifts to take home you can buy beautiful ceramics- I chose a wall hanging from a gallery featuring the seafront complete with little villa, sea, sand and even seagulls. Food lovers can purchase from a wide assortment of flavoured virgin olive oils in decorated jars, or bottles of wine.

…..southern Spain tomorrow
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Lanzarote-home of the eighth wonder

October 25th 2006 22:53
Lanzarote…home of the Eighth Wonder?

Lanzarote is one of the Canary Islands and perhaps the most spectacular of all due to its volcanic landscape. It is said to be the home of the eighth wonder of the world- Los Jameos del Agua-a huge cavernous structure that deep down in the centre is a lagoon in which white blind crabs live- the only kind in the world. Visitors can traverse deep into the remains of the volcano by steep steps carved into the rock, holding on to ropes attached to the side. Every so far, there is an wider section where one can stop to view the giant stalactites, or marvel at the man made concert area built to take advantage of the acoustics. At one point, you come outside to a small outcrop where small pools are home to turtles.

But I am rushing ahead of myself. Lanzarote is part of the Canaries archipelago and its landmass is relatively small- 60 km long by 20 km wide. The whole of the Canaries is only around 500 km apart; which makes island hopping very viable and recommended, as each offers something different. Much of the land surface is blackvolcanic ash that gives the impression of a moonscape. This gives rise to an unusual method of growing grapevines- they are planted to spread horizontally along the ground- each group of plants surrounded by a semi-circle of stones to catch and direct moisture to the vines.
The upside of the rich ash is it is beneficial to certain flora which is planted abundantly in the gardens of little villa resorts particularly around Puerto del Carmen towards the south of the island.

On our trip we visited the ‘green lake’ – so called due to the overabundance of weeds that make the surface appear bright green. We also saw the remains of an old movie set for ‘100 years BC’ which starred Raquel Welch! Small ‘stone age’ encampments near caves were in a state of disrepair…perhaps they are now gone.

Our accommodation of choice was a self- catering villa- part of a large complex.The white washed walls of the building were almost blinding in the sun. Each villa is comfortably furnished. The terrace is private and looks onto its own garden resplendent with flowers that make a colourful contrast to the lava ‘soil’.
In the morning we would find a little cloth bag on the door containing fresh bread rolls, some fruit, preserves and butter. For our other provisions, we shopped at the local supermarket to buy green tomatoes- I searched for ‘ripe’ ones until someone told me that they were the local variety and always green in colour! I smile as I remember the ‘yellow thin, grain fed chickens’ (not at all like the large plump, round chickens I am used to)- these reminded me of those used in comic skits! .

THE FOOD: Aaah! the memory makes me smile.
SEAFOOD: The wide variety of seafood- tuna, swordfish, calamari, prawns- nearly always pan fried and served with the local’ Mojo’- a sauce made from a variety of ingredients including garlic, chilli, peppercorns or a different version coloured green by adding herbs like coriander.
OTHER: Apart from traditional Spanish fare of paella and the little dishes of tapas, there are local dishes of the Canaries. These include:- a meat stew called ‘ Puchero Canario’ which is served as both a first and second course. The soup is liquid from the stew, while the main or second course contains the meat and vegetables. It is usually pork and beef, and assorted vegetables e.g. sweet potato, cabbage or pumpkin. This is not unlike the French dish ‘Pot eu Feu’ (boiled beef with vegetables- also served as two courses). "Sancocho Canaria" a fish stew made from dried fish and potatoes.
"Pescada A La Sal" is fish baked in salt.

Speaking of food, it reminds me of a wonderful night at a restaurant on "Timanfaya" or ‘fire mountain". After ordering, we went outside with a chef who carried a long spade.
His oven was the live volcano several metres from the restaurant. He dug deep into the black ash until it became bright red as the live ash was exposed. We quickly stepped back as we felt the heat. Then he deftly lowered a wire basket (in which our meat order was fixed) into the hole. In a few minutes, the meat was cooked to perfection. We went inside as the chef completed the meal adornments, to discuss the experience.

EXPEDITION: Another memorable moment was taking a camel ride up the side of an extinct volcano. The camels are the African variety with one hump, so two passengers were required to sit either side for balance. The views were amazing but soon I, not one for heights and positioned on the ‘outer’ side, ‘chickened out’ when halfway up the mountain as the camel sway got more pronounced as it climbed. As I got off to wait for the camel train to the continue the journey, I felt sorry for the other passenger who had to sit on the hump for the remainder of the climb.!

So much to enjoy in fascinating Lanzarote…a caution though- it is best as a winter resort as the heat in the summer restricts swimming time and is conducive to bad sunburn which we soon discovered!
Join me again tomorrow….

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Inviting Bali

October 25th 2006 02:57
Inviting Bali…

I discovered that a good way to enjoy your stay on this beautiful island- especially if you want to experience accommodation with a local influence- is to wait until you arrive at Denpasar airport to book accommodation


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Gothenburg view of Sweden

October 23rd 2006 00:02
The Gothenburg view of Sweden:

I had the opportunity of visiting Gothenburg through the courtesy of a friend who worked as a travel writer on a UK magazine


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BELGIUM

October 20th 2006 14:03
BELGIUM…. A ‘confusion’ of cultures.

My first experience of Belgium was as a ‘stopping point’. Having taken a midnight ferry from Dover, I connected with a coach at the port of Zeebrugge, to proceed on an overland expedition that would take me through three more countries to my eventual destination-Grado in Italy


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Sights of Instanbul

October 18th 2006 22:07
SIGHTS OF INSTANBUL…

The longer you spend in Instanbul, the more you come to appreciate its rich history


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Surprising Instanbul

October 18th 2006 07:58
Surprising Instanbul-capital of Turkey…

Turkey is in a unique location; it straddles the continents of Asia and Europe


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Secrets from an Italian kitchen

October 14th 2006 09:12
Secrets from an Italian kitchen

With a healthy appetite for meals made from the freshest ingredients, I make a point of ‘winkling’ secrets that make well-known favourites just that extra bit special


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Rome/Italy 2

October 10th 2006 23:26
Bella Roma…

It is quite easy to pick up phrases if you are staying in Italy. I made a point of ‘conversing’ each day with the waiters and shop assistants where I lunched, and frequented. We made an agreement that they were not to speak to me in English, so I ordered in Italian each day and learnt new phrases along the way


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Rome 1

October 10th 2006 00:19
Welcome back!

I once lived in Rome; it has to be a favourite destination


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Bangkok

October 6th 2006 08:56
Welcome back to Thailand...

Queen Sirikit is the patron of "the Support Foundation" whose aim is to nurture the continuation of traditional handicrafts in Thailand. Among these is the making of "Sa'" paper-a distinctive ripple surface paper made from mulberry leaves used by artists. You can see examples of the craft and texture of paintings on the website: www.mulberrysquare.com. Other crafts include the world renowned Thai silk fabric made into garments, accessories and figurines, woven products using wool with silk for traditional costumes including the thai 'sash', or delicate table covers and elaborate wall hangings. Jewellery making with precious stones. or silver table settings and cutlery can be found all around the capital


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Thailand: part one

October 4th 2006 01:57
Thailand- its name conjures up visions of island resorts, bustling city centres and sweeping countryside.

An Asian nation never colonized by western countries, the existence of majestic landmark temples all over the country, most notably in its capital Bangkok- allow us the opportunity to look back in time. Many of the temples glowing gold in the sun are tourist favourites to browse around and admire


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Seychelles

October 3rd 2006 05:41
Let's journey to the Seychelles..

Nestling in the Indian Ocean, the Seychelles is a group of 115 islands. Positioned across the sea the closest country is Kenya on the African continent


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