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Travel Mezze - November 2006

New York at a glance

November 30th 2006 20:39
NEW YORK at a glance.

I arrived at Newark airport on my first visit to New York. It was a smaller airport than I imaged and I was told it is often used as an addition for international flights with the larger one. I joined the taxi queue as I had seen in many a movie and was allotted mine. On the way to the upper West Side, I couldn’t help noticing the graffiti covered walls of neighbourhood basketball courts- everything was coming to life from magazine pages and TV shows a la NYPD Blue! The heavily reinforced screen around the driver brought home the possibility of city violence.


As soon as I arrived at my destination my friends were keen to show me around. When they mentioned a walk in Central Park I baulked at the idea- in fact it took them a week before I would venture in. When I finally did, it was quite pleasant.
Best of all was the Boathouse restaurant overlooking the lake. Always popular, my friends booked a table before I arrived to be sure of getting one with a good vantage point. Watching the rowers lazily traversing the lake one could easily be any place in the world. I was lucky to enjoy some ‘Indian summer’ warmth as well. The food is quite good at the restaurant that serves snacks as well as full meals.
Afterwards we strolled around the park always where there were many other walkers. I don’t fancy wandering about in deserted sectors- too many stories of muggings have kept me very aware on my regular travels around the world. It is sensible to be cautious.

My visit coincided with a few street festivals. We always made use of them to wander along the many stalls providing produce, food and clothing. I decided to tackle snacks each time- that way I would not miss out on goodies further along the way! The first festival we tried Indian samousas- curried snacks of vegetables or lamb encased in fried triangular shaped pastry. Next it was a slice of thin crisp pizza smothered in hot Italian salami and mushrooms. We then ventured to try some spicy chicken pieces, and finished with a tasting of assorted cheeses! At lunch time (!!) I returned to an interesting stall selling circular spicy sausage with sauerkraut. I placed my order and the stall holder picked up a French loaf, slicing off a generous piece. He reached for a sausage and sliced it in half to place on the bread. Upon my request for sauerkraut- he piled what seemed a small bowlful on top of the by now creaking bread! I hastily asked for half the amount, which he reluctantly cut. My two friends and I feasted magnificently on this.


I have heard jokes about the size of food portions in the U.S. and it soon came to light on a visit to Carnegie’s the famous diner. A long time lover of salt beef, I went with the aim of trying it. The waiter asked if I wanted cheese and (yes again!) sauerkraut; I asked for both with a request for Swiss cheese. I kid you not, when my order arrived I counted 9 finely sliced pieces of salt beef, under a mass (the only way to describe it) of sauerkraut and 6 slices of Swiss! I began laughing out of shock? disbelief whatever. My friend’s amusement at the size of my meal was lost when her order of fried chicken arrived. It looked like a half of a turkey! There were so many pieces of chicken on her plate that it looked like a serving plate at a club function!
I must say I lost my appetite completely at the sight of the mounds of food, and ate just one slice of my salt beef. I asked for the rest to be packed to take home.
(It lasted three of us a week!).

My visit also included strolls around the Greenwich village, Chelsea and Soho districts and surrounding areas; stopping to browse around the specialist shops and galleries. My friends were renovating an Art deco apartment and I enjoyed looking around the antique furniture shops some reminiscent of those in London, England. We also did serious damage to our livers by trying nearly every coffee shop along the way for comparison!
We had to take the subway to get there, which while quick, I found very grubby and dark. My friends told me not to look directly at people which was hard as I wanted to take in all around me. At one stop, some quite hefty teenagers came aboard with the sole reason I think of annoying passengers. One came up to me and pretended to punch me in the face that I found extremely disconcerting! The group then laughed and jumped off at the next stop. At another stop, a poorly dressed woman came on and went down the rows of passenger seats asking for money. She leaned particularly close to me and breathed her demands closer than I preferred- I like my personal space!
I pointed out to my friends after those experience a preference to travel by taxi or bus!

One day we took in the Metropolitan Museum of Art and then the Whitney Museum of American Art, after which we went for a stroll in the park to watch the skateboarders go through their paces. I was also shown a smallish enclosed area where owners could bring their dogs for a little ‘socialisation’.

On another occasion, I accompanied my friend for one of her weekly work out sessions at the Reebok sports club on Columbus Avenue where some famous personalities go. I occupied myself reading magazines while others got fit! After the club, it was (again!) almost time for lunch so we went to a nearby bistro. Imagine my surprise to see Billy Baldwin- my first movie star spotting!

My friends were having company one evening so I offered to cook something different having spent some time travelling in Asia. Imagine my disappointment not to find the most basic ingredients in the Upper West Side. I went to so many gourmet shops and only indigenous produce they seemed to stock was Italian-not an Asian noodle to be found- shame on them! Too lazy to travel to Chinatown for ingredients, I opted to cook Italian food!
Speaking of Italian, I found a wonderful little bistro in the upper West side that made the most mouth watering Tagliatelle Vongole. Plump little molluscs steamed in their shells, stirred in olive oil, butter and white wine then served on al dente strands of golden pasta sprinkled with parsley and parmesan- yum! I went back again for an encore before I left NY.

I have to also mention a fantastic patisserie coffee shop also on the upper West Side (whose name escapes me). Set in a dark painted façade with French featured posters in a terraced building up a flight of stairs surrounded by wrought iron sidings- you will see an amazing array of mouth watering cakes of all kinds.
We always found an excuse to return if only for a coffee to gaze at the wondrous selection if we were too full to eat anything!
I also liked street stalls selling back copies of old American magazines and posters- a great souvenir to take home.

To finish off my evaluation of ‘typical U.S food-Yes, I did see street vendors selling warm pretzels and hot dogs but didn’t get to try them. I walked past a shop selling ‘the cheapest dog in NY" which was packed out I guess as the price was under a dollar.
I did visit a famous steak restaurant that was very good- the aroma of meat on entering the place was very ‘more-ish". A hamburger at a simple lunch place was great- a good beef patty, crisp fries and fresh salad with just the right amount of dressing.
I found New Yorkers either effusively friendly and very interested in my accent, or pointedly aloof. Oh yes, I also found time to buy some casual wear- always a good buy in the States.

Have I returned to New York- you bet!




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Tioman Island, Malaysia

November 22nd 2006 08:30
Tioman Island, Malaysia

An invitation to attend a wedding on Tioman Island I greeted with much enthusiasm.
It would consist of five days of relaxation in all. Tioman is located in the South China Sea and is the largest of a group of 64 volcanic islands just off the east coast of Malaysia.

The following day, a detailed plan arrived. We were asked to bring copious supplies of liquor and to assemble (a party of thirty three guests travelling from Singapore) at a well known ‘coffee" house at 6am! The owners of this establishment seeing an opportunity for customers sprang into action. The brazier was loaded with coals, and the wire mat placed over the fire. Slices of bread-with the crusts cut off- were placed on the mat. When the toast was nicely browned, liberal quantities of butter and ‘kaya’ – a green coloured preserve made from coconuts, was spread on top.
Sharp tasting local coffee powder mixed with boiling water and topped with condensed milk completed a welcome breakfast.

The coach arrived and we got aboard. It was going to be a long trip across the border to Mersing in Johor, Malaysia where we would board a boat that would take us for the final part of the journey to Tioman. If you read my previous blog, you will find a reference to the boat trip that took a further one and a half hours. I smartly took up my position partly under cover on top of the cabin away from the diesel fumes.

I must admit everyone was rather tired on arrival. We were set down on the southernmost tip of Tioman near the Mukut village. Our accomodation was right in front of us. Little huts right on the beach, each with their own little veranda and a few steps up from the sand.
We were allocated our hut- luckily I had one to myself. I was prepared for the simplest facilities but was pleasantly surprised on opening the door to finding it had two clean rooms.
The entry room was the bedroom with bunk beds and a little window covered with a piece of cloth. The real find was the bathroom. One stepped down onto a concrete floor into a small room that contained a toilet at one end, and a shower on the other side. The toilet flushed well and when turned on the shower, a cascade of icy water came out. Looking forward to freshening up after the long dusty trip, I used the shower. To my surprise the water was clear, clean and sweet enough to drink! I learned afterwards that the water source was the local waterfall!

A quick change and I went outside. We had time for a quick boat trip. Throwing some swimmers and rubber sandals and towel into a bag, I joined the group on the beach.
Our journey was relatively short, the boat took us straight out to sea and dropped an anchor. The keenest divers leapt overboard and I not knowing the depth of water we were in, opted to swim around the boat! Suddenly we were all told to get back on board as we were in the wrong spot- apparently we had dropped anchor in a shark area! No second thoughts- we hurriedly climbed back on board. A bit further on, the anchor was dropped again and we continued with our sea frolics until the sun began to go down.
Back on the beach we were told we would enjoy a pre wedding dinner. That evening we found the little café area decorated in sparkling ‘trees’ made of tinsels, coloured lights and two ‘thrones’ were set up at one end. They would be used for the wedding ceremony the next evening. Several dishes arrived after each other, most quite spicy and very fragrant.
I tempted fate by trying each one even thought my capacity for curries and hot spices is not
so good! A local band entertained us, and lots of merriment made for a great evening.

I slept well in my little hut, and had a nice cold drink from the shower in the morning!
We went to the café for local breakfast- a plate of rice with a big dollop of chilli sauce on the side, a fried egg, and a few fried small fish. There was also fresh fruit- several varieties of banana including the small, sweet sugar banana, watermelon and star fruit – shaped like its name, a plain crunchy taste and texture.

Today we were to go to Mukut waterfall, a short way. A great place for rock climbers, and the end result was worth it. Set amongst dense tropical jungle type plants we heard the waterfall first, then saw the different levels of large rock pools at different levels joined by another cascade of waterfall. We had great fun sitting in the icy cold rockpools, then climbing up another level to sit under the waterfall that beat against our skin to provide a healthy back massage!…then up another level to another rock pool and so on!
As the daily temperature was quite high- around 30degrees Celsius- the waterfall afforded great relief from the heat. This apparently was the famous waterfall featured in the film ‘South Pacific’ with Mitzi Gaynor made in 1958- she was actually seen bathing under the waterfall. Tioman was the location for the ‘Bali Hai’ of the movie.

The wedding that evening was spectacular. The bride and bridegroom adorned in local custom traditional wedding attire- very colourful and shiny. Their throne chairs were decorated with flowers and more tinsel trees. The chef outdid himself with course after course of seafood, halal poultry and mutton dishes. Our liquor supply was severely dented that night!
The day after, we went out on the boat, stopping at the village on the way to purchase extra sets of snorkling gear and mad our way to a little island about a half hour away. We were told to swim to shore, then snorkle close to shore to see an assortment of bright tropical fish including parrot fish, and to look out for sea slugs or ‘cucumbers’ on the seafloor – as these are delicacies in some Asian cusines. The big fat slugs were not at all appealing to me and I made sure I didn’t step on any!

So we spent the next few days, going out in the boat to explore different sides of the island, or just dropping anchor for diving. The island of Tioman is quite small- just 23miles long and about 7 miles wide. The exchange rate to Malaysian ringgit is in your favour for most currencies. Good to visit from March to October to avoid monsoons.
If you get a chance to go to Tioman- try the simple way. The huts were all you really need- the lush island and surrounds are certainly worth a visit and bathing in the waterfall pools is a must!
……………….a quick trip to New York next…
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Travel Experiences-part 1

November 12th 2006 06:22
Travel Experiences- part 1.

When we make the decision to travel, there are often incidents that occur that add to life’s experiences- here are some of mine.

GIANT CENTIPEDE BITES;
While enjoying a holiday in the Seychelles, I threw my towel over a beach chair and ‘plopped’ down on it. Immediately I felt a sharp pain in my thigh and jumped up.
I saw an inordinately large multlilegged insect scuttle into the undergrowth and looked down to see a huge red swelling appear. Not having any anti-insect ointment I went into the hotel to ask at reception. Immediately there was panic- a phone call urgently placed through to the management office and a suited gentlemen suddenly appeared. It was the Manager.
I was escorted into his office and asked a number of questions including ‘was I allergic to anything’, ‘Was I on medication’; ‘Did I have health insurance?’ etc.etc. The hotel doctor arrived, took my temperature and wrapped up my leg like a Christmas stocking. I was told to report daily for the next week.
Apparently a similar incident had occurred and the guest had a bad allergic reaction that resulted in a long stay in hospital. The hotel had gone into ‘damage control’ while I, not realising the possibility of a more serious problem had found it all quite amusing yet concerned that I might have to give up my daily cocktails because of the medication.
The moral?….look before you flop into beach chairs and frighten the native insects!
***
A BOUGHT TOILET VISIT:
Travelling around Turkey we found ourselves in a little village where we stopped to have a meal. Before leaving we decided on a toilet visit. The owner of the Taverna refused to let us use their convenience and led us outside where he spoke to a gentleman passing by. It seemed we were to be shown to the village conveniences that were ‘better’. Entry was a couple of coins and our guide insisted on ‘treating’ us a visit each! Not wishing to offend,
we graciously accepted his goodwill.

*****
A SURPRISING LUNCH;
We had met up with friends in France for luncheon and they insisted we try a restaurant famous for its kitchen. Keen to show off his newly learnt French, our companion decided to order on our behalf. When we asked what we were having, we were told that it was one of his ‘favourites’. Imagine our surprise (and my disappointment) when we were all served a plate on which was a fat raw gelatinous sea slug! I almost choked at the thought of eating it, and it was also obvious our companion had thought the dish he ordered was to have been something completely different!
The moral: never let anyone order for you!
****
DON’T SUNBAKE ON CEMENT:
My first visit to southern Spain and dying for a tan after a dull, bleak winter- I decided to go overboard and find the hottest place to sunbathe- it was a concrete platform.
After a time I nodded off and was nudged by a travelling companion. When I opened my eyes, all I could see was bright red light. Thinking I had ‘gone blind’ I began to cry. It was only a few minutes till normal sight resumed, but for those anxious moments I realised
what a foolish thing I had done.
*****
DON’T GO DANCING IN UNFAMILIAR PLACES:
After just a few days in Rome, I was invited to go dancing with a fellow guest in a small pensione. We had barely said ‘hello’ in the corridor. All I knew was we were going to the country and I knew no one else in Rome. We set out in the car until about half an hour later we arrived at our destination. Just on the outskirts of a village there was a tent. Table and chairs surrounded a little stage in the middle where musicians were settlng up. On one side was a trestle table with drinks and a large tub of ice.

People were going from table to table greeting friends or having a dance. After a few hours had passed, I could not see my travel companion. The tables were being packed up, the tent being put down. Seeing me alone looking worried, some people came over and ascertained my dilemma. I will always be grateful that they decided to drive me safely back to Rome that evening.
***
ALWAYS PACK SUNBLOCK:
I was going to a wedding on an island in Malaysia, part of the way we would travel by boat.
The journey was long following an equally long coach trip that was broken by stops to the driver’s friend’s shops so that he could collect his ‘commission’.
Before leaving I decided to invest in two tubes of sun block- "30’ and ‘50’ as my skin hadn’t seen the sun for some time. Seating was perfunctory. I climbed up onto the roof of the cabin facing away from the diesel smoke (I was glad as a former ‘pretend yachty’ that I knew what diesel fumes would be like after a few hours!). The optimistic were spread out catching the sun. It became apparent that the sun was hotter than most imagined and as I gazed out from my covered arms, and head with a sarong around my legs, I could see many turning a bright shade of red. I soon had some climbing up to me for some sun block. Not having even arrived at my destination I felt like ‘someone with the fishes’ as I tried to ration my supplies, treating only the ones with the worst sunburn.
******
UNUSUAL COMBINATION:
A national dish of Turkey and chocolate sauce.

A YUCKY NATIONAL DISH:
Curried Flying Fox- of the Seychelles.

A TRULY SAD ATTEMPT1:
In Asia it is believed that eating animal sex organs cooked in soup, stewed etc. will make a man virile.
>Someone should tell the perpetrators (both suppliers and diners) to wake up to themselves.

A TRULY SAD ATTEMPT 2:
There is always a place (you know where) where there is an attempt to provide something
expensive just for the sake of it- example: drops of gold leaf in tea, or drops of gold leaf on meals or confectionery and charge a fortune, serve anything live or dangerous and charge a fortune> not only cruel to creatures, but ignorant.

WHY DOESN’T SOMEONE INVENT:
* Dehydrated water to carry in your bag, a neck pillow that actually supports your neck, a bum bag big enough to hold essentials, REALLY waterproof gym shoes, a waterproof memo pad and ditto pen attachment, sunproof UV hats and caps (there used to be some),
a jumper with thicker sleeves to wear with sleeveless jackets, cotton windbreaker tops (like the sailors use) for normal folk, a rain jacket that actually breathes, wellingtons that don’t slip, a decent short flight airline snack that isn’t mostly bread or sugar etc etc.

,,,,catch you all again soon.


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Lisboa

November 12th 2006 04:39
Lisbon…or Lisboa- capital of Portugal.

Note: To my readers, my apologies for the late posting…I will enter two so you can enjoy more posts


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Isles of Skye and Mull

November 2nd 2006 06:34
Isles of SKYE and MULL.

SKYE is the largest of the Inner Hebrides island and also known as ‘the misty isle


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Wales- with a song in my heart

November 1st 2006 09:29
Wales- with a song in my heart

During my lengthy residence in the Northern Hemisphere, I promised myself that I would endeavour to enjoy all that the UK could offer. One adventure took me to Wales. I know what you are thinking- Wales-whatever for? Believe me there is much to see


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