BELGIUM
October 20th 2006 14:03
BELGIUM…. A ‘confusion’ of cultures.
My first experience of Belgium was as a ‘stopping point’. Having taken a midnight ferry from Dover, I connected with a coach at the port of Zeebrugge, to proceed on an overland expedition that would take me through three more countries to my eventual destination-Grado in Italy.
It was many years later that I actually stopped in Belgium for any length of time. I suspect that other travellers overlook Belgium as one might Switzerland; as they are relatively small countries ‘on the way’ to others.
Perhaps it doesn’t have the romantic connotation of France with whom it is often compared- after all; half the population speak French. The French Walloons and the Dutch Flemish make up the population along with a growing percentage of immigrants from African or Middle Eastern countries. I heard from a local that ‘the Walloons think the Flemish don’t know how to have fun- they are too serious", while "the Flemish believe they work harder to grow the economy as the Walloons are too lazy".
Whatever the differences- they are markedly separate not only in language, but in culture.
It is in their diverse cultures that visitors find a fascination with Belgium.
Where else can you experience two ‘countries’ without crossing borders? There is though, a definite ‘zoning’ of Flemish versus Belgian French areas. What does it amount to? A little Holland in the north, complete with waterways and bridges, pretty villages with little city squares, and lots of art exhibitions. The alternative? - Modern skylines, traditional festivals in full ‘dress’, pomp and ceremony, many pubs or bars offering it seems hundreds of brands of their world-famous beer-antiques fairs and food markets they share.
Brussels has one of the most impressive city squares in the world, The Grand Place comes alive in floral splendour every two years with a flower carpet in the middle of the square. Begonias of all colours are arranged into a magnificent landscape. Fabulous architecture of years gone by is present in the buildings surrounding the square
FAVOURS OF BRUSSELS: Little winding cobbled streets meander off to the side.
Here and there you will find the ‘favours’ of offerings of Brussels.
LACE: Shops sell world-famous intricate lace made into handkerchiefs, shawls, clothing, tablecloths and bedding. Exquisite – not cheap, but potential heirloom pieces to cherish.
CHOCOLATE: What would Belgium be without its renowned chocolate? Shops abound, some centuries old continuing time honoured traditions of craftsmanship and taste created to appeal to any palate.
SEAFOOD: My favourite. Most days of my visit I could not pass up a plate of ‘Moules Mariniere" Little plump mussels delicately poached in white wine and butter, (and onions)- piled high in large bowls or pots- and often refilled for a second helping!
You will even find a sculpture of a pot of mussels in one of the museums-as the molluscs are held in such high regard.
Local seafood ranges from an assortment of oysters; prawns, whole fish and other crustaceans all displayed on tables outside restaurants to attract the hungry diner.
CHEESE: I have to admit to a love of goat cheese or Chevre- the more intense the flavour the better. Available at Fromageries, or from local markets. You can feast to your hearts delight at the many produce stalls offering a wide range of homemade cheeses.
FRITES: Belgians will insist that THEY and not the French invented the frite. I have tasted
‘chips’ or French fries around the world and have to admit the Belgian frite has much to recommend it. I like them best from frite outlets- Frietkots or Fritures. Double fried and served in a little paper packet, golden crisp, soft inside with a good potato taste, some like rich mayonnaise on top- not me!
BOUDIN or BLOOD SAUSAGES: This is something the Belgians have in common with the
French (in France)- the beloved boudin- black (boudin Noir) or white (boudin blanc). One intense in flavour, the older milder. Quite different from ‘black pudding’ favoured in the UK, the boudin is generally more refined in texture and taste.
MUST TRY: Pubs, all around the city of Brussels, many are ‘themed’.
One quite macabre- decorated with coffins, skulls and signs of the dead, while
Theatre Royal de Toone has lots of puppets about, as it is a marionette theatre.
Bar snacks are quite hefty- my plate of salamis and cheeses was big enough for lunch for two!
Do try as many beers as you can- pace yourself as there are literally hundreds! All shades of amber to darkest of dark browns and varying in degrees of alcohol content.
I found some of them quite filling, as they are full and richly flavoured, almost like a thick malty cooled beer. Never served ice cold, they are quite sweet tasting- almost meal-like.
MUST SEE: Horta house, Brussels.
I love Art Nouveau full stop. You must take time to visit the exquisitely decorated Art Nouveau
Horta Museum- former home of Victor Horta, the famous Art Noveau architect. Every intricate detail from door handles, to furnishings, architecture, staircase, windows is representative of the style. Still modern today, yet divinely superior to our current building styles- viewing the house you are struck by the natural light that the rooms and staircases are bathed in. Buy a book of the house as a reminder of how fortunate we are to still be able to enjoy such sublime artistry.
CULTURAL MUSEUMS: These are many, and located around the country. I liked the museum
that represented Belgium’s military role in Africa. Costumes of the armies of Belgium, resplendent uniforms complete with sashes, medals and ornate jackets- and articles of former native tribes, war shields, armaments and decorative head dresses.
PUBLIC CLOCKS: Look around the city and there are magnificently carved and decorated
Clocks. The movements and carved characters synchronised with the striking of the hour are
entertaining to watch.
OTHER NOTABLES: Everyone knows Tin Tin the cartoon character with the upswept blonde hairstyle and faithful dog. I remember seeing a large Tin Tin painting on a wall as I travelled around Brussels. A recent TV documentary dealing with the creator of Tin Tin mentioned that many of the cartoons were a veiled testament to his anti-war sentiments.
Lots more to Belgium- take a visit and find out for yourself.
Tune in next week……
My first experience of Belgium was as a ‘stopping point’. Having taken a midnight ferry from Dover, I connected with a coach at the port of Zeebrugge, to proceed on an overland expedition that would take me through three more countries to my eventual destination-Grado in Italy.
It was many years later that I actually stopped in Belgium for any length of time. I suspect that other travellers overlook Belgium as one might Switzerland; as they are relatively small countries ‘on the way’ to others.
Perhaps it doesn’t have the romantic connotation of France with whom it is often compared- after all; half the population speak French. The French Walloons and the Dutch Flemish make up the population along with a growing percentage of immigrants from African or Middle Eastern countries. I heard from a local that ‘the Walloons think the Flemish don’t know how to have fun- they are too serious", while "the Flemish believe they work harder to grow the economy as the Walloons are too lazy".
It is in their diverse cultures that visitors find a fascination with Belgium.
Where else can you experience two ‘countries’ without crossing borders? There is though, a definite ‘zoning’ of Flemish versus Belgian French areas. What does it amount to? A little Holland in the north, complete with waterways and bridges, pretty villages with little city squares, and lots of art exhibitions. The alternative? - Modern skylines, traditional festivals in full ‘dress’, pomp and ceremony, many pubs or bars offering it seems hundreds of brands of their world-famous beer-antiques fairs and food markets they share.
Brussels has one of the most impressive city squares in the world, The Grand Place comes alive in floral splendour every two years with a flower carpet in the middle of the square. Begonias of all colours are arranged into a magnificent landscape. Fabulous architecture of years gone by is present in the buildings surrounding the square
FAVOURS OF BRUSSELS: Little winding cobbled streets meander off to the side.
Here and there you will find the ‘favours’ of offerings of Brussels.
LACE: Shops sell world-famous intricate lace made into handkerchiefs, shawls, clothing, tablecloths and bedding. Exquisite – not cheap, but potential heirloom pieces to cherish.
CHOCOLATE: What would Belgium be without its renowned chocolate? Shops abound, some centuries old continuing time honoured traditions of craftsmanship and taste created to appeal to any palate.
SEAFOOD: My favourite. Most days of my visit I could not pass up a plate of ‘Moules Mariniere" Little plump mussels delicately poached in white wine and butter, (and onions)- piled high in large bowls or pots- and often refilled for a second helping!
You will even find a sculpture of a pot of mussels in one of the museums-as the molluscs are held in such high regard.
Local seafood ranges from an assortment of oysters; prawns, whole fish and other crustaceans all displayed on tables outside restaurants to attract the hungry diner.
CHEESE: I have to admit to a love of goat cheese or Chevre- the more intense the flavour the better. Available at Fromageries, or from local markets. You can feast to your hearts delight at the many produce stalls offering a wide range of homemade cheeses.
FRITES: Belgians will insist that THEY and not the French invented the frite. I have tasted
‘chips’ or French fries around the world and have to admit the Belgian frite has much to recommend it. I like them best from frite outlets- Frietkots or Fritures. Double fried and served in a little paper packet, golden crisp, soft inside with a good potato taste, some like rich mayonnaise on top- not me!
BOUDIN or BLOOD SAUSAGES: This is something the Belgians have in common with the
French (in France)- the beloved boudin- black (boudin Noir) or white (boudin blanc). One intense in flavour, the older milder. Quite different from ‘black pudding’ favoured in the UK, the boudin is generally more refined in texture and taste.
MUST TRY: Pubs, all around the city of Brussels, many are ‘themed’.
One quite macabre- decorated with coffins, skulls and signs of the dead, while
Theatre Royal de Toone has lots of puppets about, as it is a marionette theatre.
Bar snacks are quite hefty- my plate of salamis and cheeses was big enough for lunch for two!
Do try as many beers as you can- pace yourself as there are literally hundreds! All shades of amber to darkest of dark browns and varying in degrees of alcohol content.
I found some of them quite filling, as they are full and richly flavoured, almost like a thick malty cooled beer. Never served ice cold, they are quite sweet tasting- almost meal-like.
MUST SEE: Horta house, Brussels.
I love Art Nouveau full stop. You must take time to visit the exquisitely decorated Art Nouveau
Horta Museum- former home of Victor Horta, the famous Art Noveau architect. Every intricate detail from door handles, to furnishings, architecture, staircase, windows is representative of the style. Still modern today, yet divinely superior to our current building styles- viewing the house you are struck by the natural light that the rooms and staircases are bathed in. Buy a book of the house as a reminder of how fortunate we are to still be able to enjoy such sublime artistry.
CULTURAL MUSEUMS: These are many, and located around the country. I liked the museum
that represented Belgium’s military role in Africa. Costumes of the armies of Belgium, resplendent uniforms complete with sashes, medals and ornate jackets- and articles of former native tribes, war shields, armaments and decorative head dresses.
PUBLIC CLOCKS: Look around the city and there are magnificently carved and decorated
Clocks. The movements and carved characters synchronised with the striking of the hour are
entertaining to watch.
OTHER NOTABLES: Everyone knows Tin Tin the cartoon character with the upswept blonde hairstyle and faithful dog. I remember seeing a large Tin Tin painting on a wall as I travelled around Brussels. A recent TV documentary dealing with the creator of Tin Tin mentioned that many of the cartoons were a veiled testament to his anti-war sentiments.
Lots more to Belgium- take a visit and find out for yourself.
Tune in next week……
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