Isles of Skye and Mull
November 2nd 2006 06:34
Isles of SKYE and MULL.
SKYE is the largest of the Inner Hebrides island and also known as ‘the misty isle".
I had longed to visit the Isle of Skye on reading the history of Scotland, as it was where ‘Bonnie’ Prince Charlie’s fled after the Culloden battle disaster. When friends decided to settle on the Isle of Mull, it prompted me to travel north to take in both islands in one trip.
My journey took me by train to Glasgow, then on to Oban where I took a ferry to Skye- landing at the port of Mallaig at the south of the island. Travel up the west coast and you will pass Dunvegan Castle- home of Clan McLeod. From there you pass the grim dark jagged mass that is the Cuillin Hills- a favourite for very fit hikers!
Continue on until you reach Carbost and the famous Talisker Scotch Whisky Distillery where I took a tour and happily sampled the product, and bought a couple of bottles.
Portree is the capital of Skye and it also a beautiful little harbour. The views provide not only a good excuse for some good sea air, but there is always something going on with little fishing boats along the front. Haddock and mackerel are common catches and give rise to the tasty Haddock chowder called "Cullen Skink". Other seafood includes wild salmon, cod, turbot, sole, crayfish, crab and scallops. Island venison is often seen on menus.
A ‘must’ is a visit to Uig as the Uig Bay sea view is breathtaking – especially at dusk and sunset.
I first stayed near Portree Harbour so that I could take a stroll down past the rows of picturesque houses for my morning constitutional. At other times, I stopped at beckoning bed and breakfast establishments to enjoy local hospitality and some good home cooking, much of it fresh local seafood and produce.
The Skye Museum of Island Life shows examples of croft living from past ages.
Prince Charlie’s Cave is where he is supposed to have hidden after escaping the mainland.
If you like fishing- travel to Sligadan, home of the fishing industry and boating.
Applecross Peninsula is a good touring location where you can see several Lochs each providing its own special panorama as you travel along the Applecross Pass.
Best buys are hand knits, assorted craft, and Skye Celtic jewellery. My cardigan was in a traditional ‘Arran style’ cable pattern that had a little card attached with the name of the knitter! Much of the woven products are decorated with ancient Celtic patterns.
MULL is the largest Hebridean Island- the island of Iona is nearby.
I travelled by ferry from Oban on the mainland to Craignure port on Mull.
Tobermory is Mull’s capital and home of the Tobermory Single Malt Whisky Distillery. This little port is home to colourful houses on the hill.
Duart Castle overlooking the Sound of Mull-has been inhabited by Clan Maclaine since the 18th century. On the island there are many remains of castles that have long since gone. Many were homes to clan families that ruled the other inhabitants.
The Ross of Mull is interesting for the unusual geology of pink red granite.
A must-see is Staffa- spectacular basalt columns in which are hundreds of caves including the famous ‘Fingals Cave’. You can take a boat trip from Craignure to explore it. Staffa has been a National Trust Heritage site since 2001.
Time your holiday to take in the Food Festival in mid-September for delicious sampling and celebration of the island’s best food.
The Tobermory Highland Games are held in July. There are good little pubs around the region and worth a quick visit for a cleansing ale and a lunch or two!
Mull is blessed with rich waters teeming with seafood. It also has a thriving fish farming industry for salmon and mussels amongst other seafood.
As our friends had opted for a life on board a boat and there was no spare room aboard,we decided to find accommodation ashore. Our little hotel served wonderful smoked haddock for breakfast. We spent days a few days at sea with our friends, glad to get a different view of the shore. I was in charge of trailing the fishing line to catch mackerel that was quickly filleted and kept on ice to be cooked for the evening meal. It was easy to become drowsy watching out for the bobbing buoy to suddenly drop down signalling a catch!
We were lucky to enjoy a feast of abalone brought along by a friend who bemoaned the fact that much of this premium crustacean is sent to the mainland!
Best buys- along with the Tobermory Single Malt Whisky is the Mull Cheddar Cheese made on Mull’s only dairy- Sgriob-Ruadh Farm. The cattle are fed herbs and distillery by-products like malt/barley, giving the cheese a distinctive tangy malt flavour. The cheddar itself is light in colour and texture.
Tobermory Single Malt Whisky Fudge is also a popular gift to take home.
……next week on to Portugal
SKYE is the largest of the Inner Hebrides island and also known as ‘the misty isle".
I had longed to visit the Isle of Skye on reading the history of Scotland, as it was where ‘Bonnie’ Prince Charlie’s fled after the Culloden battle disaster. When friends decided to settle on the Isle of Mull, it prompted me to travel north to take in both islands in one trip.
My journey took me by train to Glasgow, then on to Oban where I took a ferry to Skye- landing at the port of Mallaig at the south of the island. Travel up the west coast and you will pass Dunvegan Castle- home of Clan McLeod. From there you pass the grim dark jagged mass that is the Cuillin Hills- a favourite for very fit hikers!
Portree is the capital of Skye and it also a beautiful little harbour. The views provide not only a good excuse for some good sea air, but there is always something going on with little fishing boats along the front. Haddock and mackerel are common catches and give rise to the tasty Haddock chowder called "Cullen Skink". Other seafood includes wild salmon, cod, turbot, sole, crayfish, crab and scallops. Island venison is often seen on menus.
A ‘must’ is a visit to Uig as the Uig Bay sea view is breathtaking – especially at dusk and sunset.
I first stayed near Portree Harbour so that I could take a stroll down past the rows of picturesque houses for my morning constitutional. At other times, I stopped at beckoning bed and breakfast establishments to enjoy local hospitality and some good home cooking, much of it fresh local seafood and produce.
The Skye Museum of Island Life shows examples of croft living from past ages.
Prince Charlie’s Cave is where he is supposed to have hidden after escaping the mainland.
If you like fishing- travel to Sligadan, home of the fishing industry and boating.
Applecross Peninsula is a good touring location where you can see several Lochs each providing its own special panorama as you travel along the Applecross Pass.
Best buys are hand knits, assorted craft, and Skye Celtic jewellery. My cardigan was in a traditional ‘Arran style’ cable pattern that had a little card attached with the name of the knitter! Much of the woven products are decorated with ancient Celtic patterns.
MULL is the largest Hebridean Island- the island of Iona is nearby.
I travelled by ferry from Oban on the mainland to Craignure port on Mull.
Tobermory is Mull’s capital and home of the Tobermory Single Malt Whisky Distillery. This little port is home to colourful houses on the hill.
Duart Castle overlooking the Sound of Mull-has been inhabited by Clan Maclaine since the 18th century. On the island there are many remains of castles that have long since gone. Many were homes to clan families that ruled the other inhabitants.
The Ross of Mull is interesting for the unusual geology of pink red granite.
A must-see is Staffa- spectacular basalt columns in which are hundreds of caves including the famous ‘Fingals Cave’. You can take a boat trip from Craignure to explore it. Staffa has been a National Trust Heritage site since 2001.
Time your holiday to take in the Food Festival in mid-September for delicious sampling and celebration of the island’s best food.
The Tobermory Highland Games are held in July. There are good little pubs around the region and worth a quick visit for a cleansing ale and a lunch or two!
Mull is blessed with rich waters teeming with seafood. It also has a thriving fish farming industry for salmon and mussels amongst other seafood.
As our friends had opted for a life on board a boat and there was no spare room aboard,we decided to find accommodation ashore. Our little hotel served wonderful smoked haddock for breakfast. We spent days a few days at sea with our friends, glad to get a different view of the shore. I was in charge of trailing the fishing line to catch mackerel that was quickly filleted and kept on ice to be cooked for the evening meal. It was easy to become drowsy watching out for the bobbing buoy to suddenly drop down signalling a catch!
We were lucky to enjoy a feast of abalone brought along by a friend who bemoaned the fact that much of this premium crustacean is sent to the mainland!
Best buys- along with the Tobermory Single Malt Whisky is the Mull Cheddar Cheese made on Mull’s only dairy- Sgriob-Ruadh Farm. The cattle are fed herbs and distillery by-products like malt/barley, giving the cheese a distinctive tangy malt flavour. The cheddar itself is light in colour and texture.
Tobermory Single Malt Whisky Fudge is also a popular gift to take home.
……next week on to Portugal
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