Seychelles
October 3rd 2006 05:41
Let's journey to the Seychelles..
Nestling in the Indian Ocean, the Seychelles is a group of 115 islands. Positioned across the sea the closest country is Kenya on the African continent.
Visiting the Seychelles presents an opportunity to 'start anew', for many believe the garden of Eden began there. On the island of Praslin, at the UNESCO wildlife site "Vallee de Mai" grows the protected Coco De Mer- the world's largest nut - this unique coconut is shaped like female, or male organs. For some time, export of the Coco De Mer has been closely controlled.
The group of islands that make up the Seychelles each offer something of interest, a caution to check journey arrangements though - as just 43 have tourist accomodation.
The international airport is on the largest island Mahe- whose capital is Victoria. On the way from the airport, we noticed lawns covered in a patchwork of laundry laid out to dry.
We stayed at a beachside resort just outside of Victoria. The complex offered huts surrounding the tall open sided reception main 'hut' where guests were greeted on arrival with a cooling beverage. Individual 'huts' although thatched, were in fact modern buildings with all mod. cons- thus blending comfort and atmosphere. Heeding the grapevine, we secured ours near the swimming pool. The poolside bar offered a variety of cocktails, and we lunched on luscious freshly grilled local fish and tropical fruit. Our terrace faced a grove of coconut and mango trees-the ground constantly littered with newly fallen fruit, and in the morning- colorful parakeets vied for attention while small land crabs tunnelled in the sand.
The Seychelles is on an ocean shelf and when swimming far from shore, one suddenly experiences a feeling of eeriness as the sea suddenly appears very black off the shelf, after the cool blue-green hues closer to land. Large marine life such as manta rays can be seen below the surface further offshore, while small brightly coloured fish are prevalent around the shallows making snorkling is an enjoyable pastime. Local children collect large conch shells to sell to tourists.
Hire a little mini-moke to explore and visit the many craft galleries that dot the island.
Moving from one island to another is easy in small aircraft. We went to Bird island and as its name suggests, is home to many feathered varieties whose nesting season is April.
Walking along the shore- one is immediately overwhelmed by the incessant chattering noise.
Seychelles cuisine is creole- a blend of indian and french- creating a marvellous fusion of aromas. Fish is abundant and varied, and features in many recipes. A local favourite condiment is 'shark chutney'. At sunset, one can see locals wading along the shallows to catch small 'gummy shark' that are chopped and mashed to make a fish paste, then seasoned to add a flavoursome accompaniment to other dishes such as local curries.
Fishing trips are popular. We went out with local fishermen in a small rowboat with outboard motor, taking along just large sticks called 'priests', some brightly coloured plastic bags, assorted hooks, strong plastic thread and bags of small fish and squid for bait.
Far out to sea, I looked back at the tiny speck that was Mahe, while the local fisherman set the lines. Each stick was tied with plastic thread, a hook attached with strips of plastic bag, then bait added. The line was thrown into the sea, while the 'priest' dropped into the bottom of the boat. Before long, the loud knocking sound of the 'priest' signalled a strike...a fisherman quickly picked up the 'priest' and began arduously pulling the line hand over hand-back to the boat. Before long, a large glistening tuna was hauled in and promptly hit several times with the stick- and so it went on-till before long, our catch numbered eleven.
Our next target was barracuda, we waited a few hours till sunset before preparing to fish -this time using squid for bait. Before long, thin fish with fierce rows of sharp teeth were hauled in. We had to pull our legs out of the way of the snapping teeth of the flailing barracuda. The boat now heavily laden, we began the long trip back to shore. Friends came to the landing to help unload the catch- some we took to the resort kitchens- the remainder to be enjoyed by the fishermen and their families. Nothing would be wasted, the quantity of the catch carefully planned.
For the adventurous, paragliding provides another view of the islands.
The local rupee currency translates into a good exchange against most other currencies.
Abiding memories of the Seychelles: spectacular unspoilt scenery, unique natural flora reserves, alluring art and crafts and the friendliest people.
A footnote: the national dish is curried flying fox!
Thailand calls tomorrow........
Nestling in the Indian Ocean, the Seychelles is a group of 115 islands. Positioned across the sea the closest country is Kenya on the African continent.
Visiting the Seychelles presents an opportunity to 'start anew', for many believe the garden of Eden began there. On the island of Praslin, at the UNESCO wildlife site "Vallee de Mai" grows the protected Coco De Mer- the world's largest nut - this unique coconut is shaped like female, or male organs. For some time, export of the Coco De Mer has been closely controlled.
The group of islands that make up the Seychelles each offer something of interest, a caution to check journey arrangements though - as just 43 have tourist accomodation.
We stayed at a beachside resort just outside of Victoria. The complex offered huts surrounding the tall open sided reception main 'hut' where guests were greeted on arrival with a cooling beverage. Individual 'huts' although thatched, were in fact modern buildings with all mod. cons- thus blending comfort and atmosphere. Heeding the grapevine, we secured ours near the swimming pool. The poolside bar offered a variety of cocktails, and we lunched on luscious freshly grilled local fish and tropical fruit. Our terrace faced a grove of coconut and mango trees-the ground constantly littered with newly fallen fruit, and in the morning- colorful parakeets vied for attention while small land crabs tunnelled in the sand.
The Seychelles is on an ocean shelf and when swimming far from shore, one suddenly experiences a feeling of eeriness as the sea suddenly appears very black off the shelf, after the cool blue-green hues closer to land. Large marine life such as manta rays can be seen below the surface further offshore, while small brightly coloured fish are prevalent around the shallows making snorkling is an enjoyable pastime. Local children collect large conch shells to sell to tourists.
Moving from one island to another is easy in small aircraft. We went to Bird island and as its name suggests, is home to many feathered varieties whose nesting season is April.
Walking along the shore- one is immediately overwhelmed by the incessant chattering noise.
Seychelles cuisine is creole- a blend of indian and french- creating a marvellous fusion of aromas. Fish is abundant and varied, and features in many recipes. A local favourite condiment is 'shark chutney'. At sunset, one can see locals wading along the shallows to catch small 'gummy shark' that are chopped and mashed to make a fish paste, then seasoned to add a flavoursome accompaniment to other dishes such as local curries.
Fishing trips are popular. We went out with local fishermen in a small rowboat with outboard motor, taking along just large sticks called 'priests', some brightly coloured plastic bags, assorted hooks, strong plastic thread and bags of small fish and squid for bait.
Far out to sea, I looked back at the tiny speck that was Mahe, while the local fisherman set the lines. Each stick was tied with plastic thread, a hook attached with strips of plastic bag, then bait added. The line was thrown into the sea, while the 'priest' dropped into the bottom of the boat. Before long, the loud knocking sound of the 'priest' signalled a strike...a fisherman quickly picked up the 'priest' and began arduously pulling the line hand over hand-back to the boat. Before long, a large glistening tuna was hauled in and promptly hit several times with the stick- and so it went on-till before long, our catch numbered eleven.
Our next target was barracuda, we waited a few hours till sunset before preparing to fish -this time using squid for bait. Before long, thin fish with fierce rows of sharp teeth were hauled in. We had to pull our legs out of the way of the snapping teeth of the flailing barracuda. The boat now heavily laden, we began the long trip back to shore. Friends came to the landing to help unload the catch- some we took to the resort kitchens- the remainder to be enjoyed by the fishermen and their families. Nothing would be wasted, the quantity of the catch carefully planned.
For the adventurous, paragliding provides another view of the islands.
The local rupee currency translates into a good exchange against most other currencies.
Abiding memories of the Seychelles: spectacular unspoilt scenery, unique natural flora reserves, alluring art and crafts and the friendliest people.
A footnote: the national dish is curried flying fox!
Thailand calls tomorrow........
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