Surprising Instanbul
October 18th 2006 07:58
Surprising Instanbul-capital of Turkey…
Turkey is in a unique location; it straddles the continents of Asia and Europe.
It has as a result, many eastern and western influences.
I have to admit it is a while since I was last there- but the adventures are still clear in my mind.
PERA PALAS: Our hotel choice-because of it’s history- is situated in the city centre. Originally built in the late 1800’s- it welcomed passengers from the famed original Orient Express. The "father of Turkey"- Ataturk lived there for a time- his suite of rooms was retained for visitors to view.
As if stepping back in time, the single small lift with decorated ironwork, has a narrow velvet seat for a few guests to sit on, as it slowly climbs the floors to our rooms.
And what rooms they are! Each comes with exquisite antique furniture. The bathroom was almost as large as the room itself, complete with a huge marble tub and elaborate gold coloured tap fittings. I wanted to souvenir the beautiful large sink set into the tiled expanse of floor space. We marvelled at the furnishings that for a short while would be ours, and enjoyed the expansive views from the long windows.
TRANSPORT: We chose to spend the days walking around the city, occasionally using the ‘share’ taxis or ‘share’ buses that ply the city proper. Customers share the journey with other travellers-all we have to do is put our hands up, and the vehicle would stop for us. The conductor allowed us to alight whenever we saw a place of interest. We found the locals extremely friendly, going out of their way to actually walk us to our destination or to find transport.
We were particularly struck by what I call the "Elvis Presley’ cars…gaudy pastel coloured painted limousines with large 'fins'-circa 1950's. They were the ‘tourist taxis’ – very expensive, unlike the ‘shared’ transport.
FERRY EXPLORATION: We decided to take a ferry whose route followed the coastline north along the Black sea where the final stop was just short of the heavily guarded Russian NATO base (not sure if it is still there).
Along the way, we would see extravagant centuries-old wooden houses on the shoreline one moment, then magnificent palaces the next. Vendors came on board selling all kinds of refreshments and little treats. The ferry moved from one side of the river to the other like a drunken sailor- picking up passengers on either bank until there was eventually no seating.
At one stop, it seemed everyone but us suddenly rushed down the gangplank to shore where they hurriedly took seats at trestle tables in a clearing. We saw waiters bringing out trays filled with bowls, which soon disappeared amid a flurry of arms. We learned afterwards that it was the home of the best yoghurt in Instanbul- our disappointment on missing out on such a treat knew no bounds…
We stayed with the ferry until the final stop at the northernmost point where a little fishing village provided an excellent lunch -its 'catch of the day"- assorted seafood on a big tin platter.
It was ‘all hands in’ as we feasted on all manner of grilled fish and rough loaves of bread washed down with bottled water.
Next day, close to the hotel, we spied a little shop inside which was an oven that looked like a large termite hill with a large opening on the front. Attracted by the delicious aroma, we went inside to see what was cooking. The oven contained circular rounds of unleavened bread with a topping of minced meat and herbs.
Having just had breakfast, we decided to share one between two of us much to the disappointment of the owner who probably envisaged a larger order! The bread was nicely crisp inside and out, while the generous topping of minced lamb truly delicious. We made a mental note to come back again for more! The price? About 20 pence.!
We enjoyed strolling around the Galata Bridge, underneath which fishermen would bring their boats back in the morning and display their catch. Always eager to chat, we lost touch with the number of cups of mint ‘te’ that we were offered. In the evening, crowds thronged looking to choose a seafood restaurant for their evening meal.
The patisseries in Instanbul are amazing! It is customary for workers to stop and have a ‘glace’’ or delicious pastry and coffee before making their way home. Inside, waiters were immaculately turned out in crisp white jackets, with cloths over their arm. Many cafes had comfortable booths to relax in, and large gilded mirrors on each side of the walls. It was interesting to see crowds of business people eating cake or glace- so elegant!
We forget that Turkey was the first western country so modernised as to have the vote for women early in the 20th century, and a sophisticated water system before many other countries. This was mainly due to the Roman influence whose mark can be seen by the many bathhouses around the city.
This extends to the cuisine. Istanbul’s location offers fresh food sourced from inland regions and around the coastal waters.
We have much to share…’tune’ in again tomorrow for the Grand Bazaar etc.
Turkey is in a unique location; it straddles the continents of Asia and Europe.
It has as a result, many eastern and western influences.
I have to admit it is a while since I was last there- but the adventures are still clear in my mind.
PERA PALAS: Our hotel choice-because of it’s history- is situated in the city centre. Originally built in the late 1800’s- it welcomed passengers from the famed original Orient Express. The "father of Turkey"- Ataturk lived there for a time- his suite of rooms was retained for visitors to view.
And what rooms they are! Each comes with exquisite antique furniture. The bathroom was almost as large as the room itself, complete with a huge marble tub and elaborate gold coloured tap fittings. I wanted to souvenir the beautiful large sink set into the tiled expanse of floor space. We marvelled at the furnishings that for a short while would be ours, and enjoyed the expansive views from the long windows.
TRANSPORT: We chose to spend the days walking around the city, occasionally using the ‘share’ taxis or ‘share’ buses that ply the city proper. Customers share the journey with other travellers-all we have to do is put our hands up, and the vehicle would stop for us. The conductor allowed us to alight whenever we saw a place of interest. We found the locals extremely friendly, going out of their way to actually walk us to our destination or to find transport.
We were particularly struck by what I call the "Elvis Presley’ cars…gaudy pastel coloured painted limousines with large 'fins'-circa 1950's. They were the ‘tourist taxis’ – very expensive, unlike the ‘shared’ transport.
FERRY EXPLORATION: We decided to take a ferry whose route followed the coastline north along the Black sea where the final stop was just short of the heavily guarded Russian NATO base (not sure if it is still there).
Along the way, we would see extravagant centuries-old wooden houses on the shoreline one moment, then magnificent palaces the next. Vendors came on board selling all kinds of refreshments and little treats. The ferry moved from one side of the river to the other like a drunken sailor- picking up passengers on either bank until there was eventually no seating.
At one stop, it seemed everyone but us suddenly rushed down the gangplank to shore where they hurriedly took seats at trestle tables in a clearing. We saw waiters bringing out trays filled with bowls, which soon disappeared amid a flurry of arms. We learned afterwards that it was the home of the best yoghurt in Instanbul- our disappointment on missing out on such a treat knew no bounds…
We stayed with the ferry until the final stop at the northernmost point where a little fishing village provided an excellent lunch -its 'catch of the day"- assorted seafood on a big tin platter.
It was ‘all hands in’ as we feasted on all manner of grilled fish and rough loaves of bread washed down with bottled water.
Next day, close to the hotel, we spied a little shop inside which was an oven that looked like a large termite hill with a large opening on the front. Attracted by the delicious aroma, we went inside to see what was cooking. The oven contained circular rounds of unleavened bread with a topping of minced meat and herbs.
Having just had breakfast, we decided to share one between two of us much to the disappointment of the owner who probably envisaged a larger order! The bread was nicely crisp inside and out, while the generous topping of minced lamb truly delicious. We made a mental note to come back again for more! The price? About 20 pence.!
We enjoyed strolling around the Galata Bridge, underneath which fishermen would bring their boats back in the morning and display their catch. Always eager to chat, we lost touch with the number of cups of mint ‘te’ that we were offered. In the evening, crowds thronged looking to choose a seafood restaurant for their evening meal.
The patisseries in Instanbul are amazing! It is customary for workers to stop and have a ‘glace’’ or delicious pastry and coffee before making their way home. Inside, waiters were immaculately turned out in crisp white jackets, with cloths over their arm. Many cafes had comfortable booths to relax in, and large gilded mirrors on each side of the walls. It was interesting to see crowds of business people eating cake or glace- so elegant!
We forget that Turkey was the first western country so modernised as to have the vote for women early in the 20th century, and a sophisticated water system before many other countries. This was mainly due to the Roman influence whose mark can be seen by the many bathhouses around the city.
This extends to the cuisine. Istanbul’s location offers fresh food sourced from inland regions and around the coastal waters.
We have much to share…’tune’ in again tomorrow for the Grand Bazaar etc.
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