Wales- with a song in my heart
November 1st 2006 09:29
Wales- with a song in my heart
During my lengthy residence in the Northern Hemisphere, I promised myself that I would endeavour to enjoy all that the UK could offer. One adventure took me to Wales. I know what you are thinking- Wales-whatever for? Believe me there is much to see.
My then limited knowledge of Wales was a ‘triangle’ (rather than a cross) between the movie ‘How green was my Valley’, Welsh singers seen on TV, and a rather soulful Welsh workmate with an impressive capacity for liquor! I was teased by friends who said I had to learn how to pronounce names of Welsh villages- many whose names started with double ‘l’- and pronounced "hllllll"- something like ‘hill’ without the I- while holding your tongue on the roof of your mouth! Armed with this important piece of knowledge we set off up the M4 with the essential flask of hot tea to keep us alert!
It was going to be an interesting touring holiday as we planned to travel up the West Coast and make our way inland before returning south. We were lucky as the coastal roads allow for marvellous sea views. I was quite jealous to see the ‘ideal’ property-and there were many along the way. Little farmhouses whose property extended at the front to the seashore with the mandatory rowboat on the ready- while at the back were rolling hills with grazing sheep in the shadow of the mountains. ---wonderful!
The first refreshment stop was for lunch. We opted to try the quaint little fish’ n chip shop. (I tell you I would go miles to have decent fish ‘n chips!). There was no menu inside, nor did it have a blackboard with the bill of fare. When we asked what fish they offered- we were told ‘Cod’, when we asked ‘what else’? - the smiling girl said ‘Cod’ – there it was, our Fish choice of the day! I spied a plate of bright red extra large frankfurts placed near an even larger bowl of batter- fried saveloys anyone? The other unusual item was fried mushrooms in batter- large portobellos cleaned and ready to cook. The chips were exceptional- giant beefeater ones they were-crisp on the outside and fluffy inside.
I suspect that the potatoes were par-boiled first before getting their ‘first’ frying.
Each day the local pub got a try. Not being a Guinness or beer fan like many Welsh, I embarrassed my companion by requesting an assortment of cocktails to test the barman’s skills- I was not popular! Pub fare is a rather hit and miss affair. You can get an excellent equivalent of a Ploughman’s (bread, pickles and cheese) one day, and want to run screaming for a fried mushroom the next!
We had quite a few meals of Welsh lamb that was just in season. Lamb roasts, stews or grills- lead me to them! Welsh lamb is acknowledged to be one of the best varieties for its milky light meat and delicate sweet flavour. We also ate meals of Welsh Black beef and our breakfasts whenever possible included ‘Laverbread’ made of seaweed, sprinkled with oatmeal and cooked nice and crispy in bacon fat!
Wales is a country of castles. Where there were once 400, now only around 100 remain in different states of repair. Some are open to visitors.
Wales has their own collection of tartans- I purchased a small bolt of Jenkins tartan to take home. Welsh mills have long been renowned for the striking cloth they weave. Various clothing articles are good purchases to make.
If you like to play around with unusual names- think of the town on the isle of Anglesey in North Wales called: Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch"-it means "The church of St. Mary in the hollow of white hazel trees near the rapid whirlpool by St. Tysilio's of the red cave". Locals know it as "Llanfair".
Cockles have always held a place in Welsh cuisine, collected from mudflats, these protein rich shellfish used to be a regular item on household menus. My favourite cheese is Caerphilly- its white crumbly texture and slightly salty flavour is a delight with a glass of wine or port. Pork is also commonly used- one traditional meal is cooked in one pot with vegetables. The broth is served first, followed by the meat and vegetables- another culinary relation to the French "Pot eu Feu".
I stayed in the picturesque village of Crickhowell on the river Usk, in a little bed and breakfast establishment. Huge feasts of bacon, eggs and laverbread set us nicely on our way each morning. Another stopover was in Llandudno and yet another in Abergavenny to visit the famous market.
….next, the Isles of Skye and Mull in Scotland
During my lengthy residence in the Northern Hemisphere, I promised myself that I would endeavour to enjoy all that the UK could offer. One adventure took me to Wales. I know what you are thinking- Wales-whatever for? Believe me there is much to see.
My then limited knowledge of Wales was a ‘triangle’ (rather than a cross) between the movie ‘How green was my Valley’, Welsh singers seen on TV, and a rather soulful Welsh workmate with an impressive capacity for liquor! I was teased by friends who said I had to learn how to pronounce names of Welsh villages- many whose names started with double ‘l’- and pronounced "hllllll"- something like ‘hill’ without the I- while holding your tongue on the roof of your mouth! Armed with this important piece of knowledge we set off up the M4 with the essential flask of hot tea to keep us alert!
It was going to be an interesting touring holiday as we planned to travel up the West Coast and make our way inland before returning south. We were lucky as the coastal roads allow for marvellous sea views. I was quite jealous to see the ‘ideal’ property-and there were many along the way. Little farmhouses whose property extended at the front to the seashore with the mandatory rowboat on the ready- while at the back were rolling hills with grazing sheep in the shadow of the mountains. ---wonderful!
The first refreshment stop was for lunch. We opted to try the quaint little fish’ n chip shop. (I tell you I would go miles to have decent fish ‘n chips!). There was no menu inside, nor did it have a blackboard with the bill of fare. When we asked what fish they offered- we were told ‘Cod’, when we asked ‘what else’? - the smiling girl said ‘Cod’ – there it was, our Fish choice of the day! I spied a plate of bright red extra large frankfurts placed near an even larger bowl of batter- fried saveloys anyone? The other unusual item was fried mushrooms in batter- large portobellos cleaned and ready to cook. The chips were exceptional- giant beefeater ones they were-crisp on the outside and fluffy inside.
Each day the local pub got a try. Not being a Guinness or beer fan like many Welsh, I embarrassed my companion by requesting an assortment of cocktails to test the barman’s skills- I was not popular! Pub fare is a rather hit and miss affair. You can get an excellent equivalent of a Ploughman’s (bread, pickles and cheese) one day, and want to run screaming for a fried mushroom the next!
We had quite a few meals of Welsh lamb that was just in season. Lamb roasts, stews or grills- lead me to them! Welsh lamb is acknowledged to be one of the best varieties for its milky light meat and delicate sweet flavour. We also ate meals of Welsh Black beef and our breakfasts whenever possible included ‘Laverbread’ made of seaweed, sprinkled with oatmeal and cooked nice and crispy in bacon fat!
Wales is a country of castles. Where there were once 400, now only around 100 remain in different states of repair. Some are open to visitors.
Wales has their own collection of tartans- I purchased a small bolt of Jenkins tartan to take home. Welsh mills have long been renowned for the striking cloth they weave. Various clothing articles are good purchases to make.
If you like to play around with unusual names- think of the town on the isle of Anglesey in North Wales called: Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch"-it means "The church of St. Mary in the hollow of white hazel trees near the rapid whirlpool by St. Tysilio's of the red cave". Locals know it as "Llanfair".
Cockles have always held a place in Welsh cuisine, collected from mudflats, these protein rich shellfish used to be a regular item on household menus. My favourite cheese is Caerphilly- its white crumbly texture and slightly salty flavour is a delight with a glass of wine or port. Pork is also commonly used- one traditional meal is cooked in one pot with vegetables. The broth is served first, followed by the meat and vegetables- another culinary relation to the French "Pot eu Feu".
I stayed in the picturesque village of Crickhowell on the river Usk, in a little bed and breakfast establishment. Huge feasts of bacon, eggs and laverbread set us nicely on our way each morning. Another stopover was in Llandudno and yet another in Abergavenny to visit the famous market.
….next, the Isles of Skye and Mull in Scotland
| 64 |
| Vote |
subscribe to this blog
